10am: coffee and pastries
I start my day with coffee at Dope Roasting Co, just off Athinas Street. It roasts its own beans, and sells delights like chocolate banana babka (a sweet braided cake). It’s worth browsing Varvakios Agora market while in the area.
11am: minimalist souvlaki
Lefteris o Politis is an old-school souvlaki joint founded in 1951, tucked away on a street off Omonia Square. There’s just one thing on offer, but it’s mighty good: a spicy minced beef patty with tomatoes, onions and parsley, wrapped in a warm pita. 20 Satovriandou
1pm: Georgian-style bread
If it’s sunny, I stroll to Victoria Square, a multicultural area that’s home to many refugees. A tiny, nameless Georgian bakery sells great puri (fried bread) and khachapuri (cheese-filled bread). 79 Aristotelous
2:30pm: Meze hour
Ouzeri tou Laki is where I go for seafood meze paired with ouzo, sitting outside and soaking up the sun as I dine. Work your way through dishes like steamed ray with green pepper and pink peppercorns.
6pm: Aperitifs in Koukaki
Specialising in ice-cold spritzers starting at just €2.50 (£2.20), Drupes Spritzeria, in Koukaki, is a fantastic spot to kick off the evening. With limited seating at the tiny bar, guests often prefer to stand outside and socialise.
8pm: Slow food at Fita
For dinner, I like to frequent Fita, in Neos Kosmos. Co-owners and chefs Thodoris Kassavetis and Fotis Fotinoglou serve tasty Greek fare with a twist at reasonable prices. The menu is seasonal and mostly seafood-centred, but there are excellent alternatives. I adore their salads, taramasalata, crispy chips and grilled beef liver. 1 Ntourm
11pm: Time to bar-hop
We Athenians love to party — and luckily we’re spoiled for choice. If the weather permits, I head to the garden at Six d.o.g.s for cocktails. Indoors, there’s a mix of concerts, DJ sets and exhibitions. Bar-hopping lasts until the early hours and there are dozens of drinking dens in the vicinity.
How to do it
Culinary Backstreets offer Athens food tours from £97 per person and online Greek cooking experiences from £25.
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Published in the April 2021 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK)
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