When Natalia Levey announced that she was taking over the downtown Sarasota restaurant space that previously housed Lemon Tree Kitchen, I wasn’t surprised. Levey’s two Speaks Clam Bar restaurants have proven popular, and the Lemon Tree space was too nice to sit empty for long. What did surprise me was the direction of the new restaurant. Unlike Speaks, which recreates the vibe of Italian-American clam bars in the Northeast, Kojo mashes together Asian food with techniques and flavors from other parts of the world.
That means you’ll find traditional items like sushi, baos (steamed